Print your own parts for a DIY build: Difference between revisions
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== capstan handle == | == capstan handle == | ||
=== What it is: === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print Settings === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print Time === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print File === | |||
This is the main part | |||
== capstan cap == | == capstan cap == | ||
=== What it is: === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print Settings === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print Time === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print File === | |||
This is the main part | |||
== capstan == | == capstan == | ||
=== What it is: === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print Settings === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print Time === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print File === | |||
This is the main part | |||
== spine == | == spine == | ||
=== What it is: === | |||
This is the main flexing part for the camera. It acts like a spine -- it has rigid 'vertebra' and living hinge 'discs' which allow it to flex | |||
=== Print Settings === | |||
Print without support, flat edge on the print bed, as shown in the screencap below: | |||
== Spine == | |||
=== What it is: === | |||
This is the main part | |||
[[File:Spine.png|thumb]] | |||
Print temperature is *super* important for the flexibility of the living hinge. The first layer can be whatever you want for adhesion, but I *strongly* recommend keeping the print temp as close to 240C as you can get away with (some extruder/filament combos want a bit higher temp). I've found that the living hinge becomes much more flexible, but weaker, at higher print temps. 260C is very flexible but very fragile, and for day-to-day use, I really recommend you get a sturdier spine, by keeping your print head at 240C. | |||
=== Print Time === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print File === | |||
This is the main part | |||
== tensioning cap == | == tensioning cap == | ||
=== What it is: === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print Settings === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print Time === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print File === | |||
This is the main part | |||
== endoscope top cap == | == endoscope top cap == | ||
=== What it is: === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print Settings === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print Time === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print File === | |||
This is the main part | |||
== key == | == key == | ||
=== What it is: === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print Settings === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print Time === | |||
This is the main part | |||
=== Print File === | |||
This is the main part | |||
Revision as of 17:03, 23 June 2026
This is the manufacturing doc for printing your parts entirely from scratch. You will need:
- A standard FDM printer with at least a 220mm x 220mm print bed
- PETG filament -- a full set takes 330g of filament
- Time -- on the lab printers (flashforge Adventure 5m and Qidi pro), it takes ~12.5 print hours to do everything
- 12 M4 heat-set inserts and a soldering iron or heat-set tool
The print settings for each part is detailed below. Please pay extra attention to the part orientation, support requirements, and fill settings
capstan handle
What it is:
This is the main part
Print Settings
This is the main part
Print Time
This is the main part
Print File
This is the main part
capstan cap
What it is:
This is the main part
Print Settings
This is the main part
Print Time
This is the main part
Print File
This is the main part
capstan
What it is:
This is the main part
Print Settings
This is the main part
Print Time
This is the main part
Print File
This is the main part
spine
What it is:
This is the main flexing part for the camera. It acts like a spine -- it has rigid 'vertebra' and living hinge 'discs' which allow it to flex
Print Settings
Print without support, flat edge on the print bed, as shown in the screencap below:
Spine
What it is:
This is the main part
Print temperature is *super* important for the flexibility of the living hinge. The first layer can be whatever you want for adhesion, but I *strongly* recommend keeping the print temp as close to 240C as you can get away with (some extruder/filament combos want a bit higher temp). I've found that the living hinge becomes much more flexible, but weaker, at higher print temps. 260C is very flexible but very fragile, and for day-to-day use, I really recommend you get a sturdier spine, by keeping your print head at 240C.
Print Time
This is the main part
Print File
This is the main part
tensioning cap
What it is:
This is the main part
Print Settings
This is the main part
Print Time
This is the main part
Print File
This is the main part
endoscope top cap
What it is:
This is the main part
Print Settings
This is the main part
Print Time
This is the main part
Print File
This is the main part
key
What it is:
This is the main part
Print Settings
This is the main part
Print Time
This is the main part
Print File
This is the main part