Print your own parts for a DIY build
This is the manufacturing doc for printing your parts entirely from scratch. You will need:
- A standard FDM printer with at least a 220mm x 220mm print bed
- PETG filament -- a full set takes 330g of filament
- Time -- on the lab printers (flashforge Adventure 5m and Qidi pro), it takes ~12.5 print hours to do everything
- 12 M4 heat-set inserts and a soldering iron or heat-set tool
The print settings for each part is detailed below. Please pay extra attention to the part orientation, support requirements, and fill settings
capstan handle
What it is:
This is the main part
Print Settings
This is the main part
Print Time
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Print File
This is the main part
capstan cap
What it is:
This is the main part
Print Settings
This is the main part
Print Time
This is the main part
Print File
This is the main part
capstan
What it is:
This is the main part
Print Settings
This is the main part
Print Time
This is the main part
Print File
This is the main part
spine
What it is:
This is the main flexing part for the camera. It acts like a spine -- it has rigid 'vertebra' and living hinge 'discs' which allow it to flex up to 90 degrees. There are channels for the cable to run through, and a center channel for the camera to pass through it. The Endcap bolts onto the end and holds the camera in place, and the whole outside threads into the Tensioning Cap, which lets you stash it safely in the pipe for travel, or bring it out and tension it for use.
Print Settings
Print without support, flat edge on the print bed, as shown in the screencap below. Depending on the size of your print bed, you may need to rotate it by 45 degrees so that it fits on the bed.
Print temperature is *super* important for the flexibility of the living hinge. The first layer can be whatever you want for adhesion, but I *strongly* recommend keeping the print temp as close to 240C as you can get away with (some extruder/filament combos want a bit higher temp). I've found that the living hinge becomes much more flexible, but weaker, at higher print temps. 260C is very flexible but very fragile, and for day-to-day use, I really recommend you get a sturdier spine, by keeping your print head at 240C.
Most of this print is pretty slim, so I don't worry about infill -- I print at 2 wall loops, 4 top shells, 3 bottom shells, and 15% sparse infill
Print Time
About 5 hours on my flashforge Adventure.
Print File
tensioning cap
What it is:
This is the main part
Print Settings
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Print Time
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Print File
This is the main part
endoscope top cap
What it is:
This is the main part
Print Settings
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Print File
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key
What it is:
This is the main part
Print Settings
This is the main part
Print Time
This is the main part
Print File
This is the main part