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Print your own parts for a DIY build

From seaCell

This is the manufacturing doc for printing your parts entirely from scratch. You will need:

  • A standard FDM printer with at least a 220mm x 220mm print bed
  • PETG filament -- a full set takes 330g of filament
  • Time -- on the lab printers (flashforge Adventure 5m and Qidi pro), it takes ~12.5 print hours to do everything
  • 12 M4 heat-set inserts and a soldering iron or heat-set tool


The print settings for each part is detailed below. Please pay extra attention to the part orientation, support requirements, and fill settings

capstan handle

What it is:

This is the main part

This is the main part

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This is the main part

capstan cap

What it is:

This is the main part

This is the main part

This is the main part

This is the main part

capstan

What it is:

This is the main part

This is the main part

This is the main part

This is the main part

spine

What it is:

This is the main flexing part for the camera. It acts like a spine -- it has rigid 'vertebra' and living hinge 'discs' which allow it to flex

Print without support, flat edge on the print bed, as shown in the screencap below:

Spine

What it is:

This is the main part

Print temperature is *super* important for the flexibility of the living hinge. The first layer can be whatever you want for adhesion, but I *strongly* recommend keeping the print temp as close to 240C as you can get away with (some extruder/filament combos want a bit higher temp). I've found that the living hinge becomes much more flexible, but weaker, at higher print temps. 260C is very flexible but very fragile, and for day-to-day use, I really recommend you get a sturdier spine, by keeping your print head at 240C.

This is the main part

This is the main part

tensioning cap

What it is:

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This is the main part

endoscope top cap

What it is:

This is the main part

This is the main part

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This is the main part

key

What it is:

This is the main part

This is the main part

This is the main part

This is the main part