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Print your own parts for a DIY build

From seaCell

This is the manufacturing doc for printing your parts entirely from scratch. You will need:

  • A standard FDM printer with at least a 220mm x 220mm print bed
  • PETG filament -- a full set takes 330g of filament
  • Time -- on the lab printers (flashforge Adventure 5m and Qidi pro), it takes ~12.5 print hours to do everything
  • 12 M4 heat-set inserts and a soldering iron or heat-set tool


The print settings for each part is detailed below. Please pay extra attention to the part orientation, support requirements, and fill settings

capstan handle

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What it is:

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This is the handle that you use to bend the spine back and forth -- it attaches to the capstan.

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This needs to be strong -- it's one of two parts that experiences significant mechanical force, so print at 50% sparse infill density. Enable supports for this part.

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1 hour 22 minutes

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capstan cap

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What it is:

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This is the part that slides over the PVC pipe and acts as an axle holder for the capstan. Also supports the phone mount.

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This is the other part that experiences mechanical stress, so print at 50% infill density. No support needed.

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1 hour 49 mins

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Capstan

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What it is:

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The capstan is a round drum that the string wraps around. Rotate the capstan, the string changes position, and the spine bends

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Standard PETG settings, 15% sparse infill, no support

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1 hour

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spine

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What it is:

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This is the main flexing part for the camera. It acts like a spine -- it has rigid 'vertebra' and living hinge 'discs' which allow it to flex up to 90 degrees. There are channels for the cable to run through, and a center channel for the camera to pass through it. The Endcap bolts onto the end and holds the camera in place, and the whole outside threads into the Tensioning Cap, which lets you stash it safely in the pipe for travel, or bring it out and tension it for use.

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Print without support, flat edge on the print bed, as shown in the screencap below. Depending on the size of your print bed, you may need to rotate it by 45 degrees so that it fits on the bed.

Print temperature is *super* important for the flexibility of the living hinge. The first layer can be whatever you want for adhesion, but I *strongly* recommend keeping the print temp as close to 240C as you can get away with (some extruder/filament combos want a bit higher temp). I've found that the living hinge becomes much more flexible, but weaker, at higher print temps. 260C is very flexible but very fragile, and for day-to-day use, I really recommend you get a sturdier spine, by keeping your print head at 240C.

Most of this print is pretty slim, so I don't worry about infill -- I print at 2 wall loops, 4 top shells, 3 bottom shells, and 15% sparse infill

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About 5 hours on my flashforge Adventure.

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tensioning cap

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What it is:

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This goes on the other side of the PVC pipe and acts like a nut that threads over the spine. Spin the tensioning cap, and the spine moves in and out of the pipe, letting you stash it for travel or quickly extend and tension it for use.

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Standard PETG print settings. Print with the handle on the bottom, no support, 15% sparse infill

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1 hour

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Endoscope Top Cap

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What it is:

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This is a small part that bolts on to the tip of the spine and holds the camera. There is another part, the Swing Arm, which can pivot about one of the bolts and clamp firmly onto the barrel, clamping it against the top cap and preventing it from rotating or sliding.

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Standard PETG settings, no support, 15% sparse infill. Be sure to print flat-side down

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18 mins

Swing Arm

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What it is:

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This is a small, pivoting arm that clamps the camera against the top cap part.

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Standard PETG settings, no support, 15% sparse infill. Be sure to get the flat side down.

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8 mins

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What it is:

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This is a small part that glues into one end of the PVC pipe and keeps the spine from rotating inside the pipe

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Standard PETG settings, keep the flat side down

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2 mins

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